Relay-Version: version B 2.10 5/3/83; site utzoo.UUCP Path: utzoo!watmath!clyde!caip!rutgers!husc6!panda!genrad!decvax!tektronix!uw-beaver!tikal!hplsla!bobc From: bobc@hplsla.UUCP (bobc) Newsgroups: net.cycle Subject: Re: Splotchy aluminum parts! Message-ID: <19500002@hplsla.UUCP> Date: Tue, 30-Sep-86 11:00:00 EDT Article-I.D.: hplsla.19500002 Posted: Tue Sep 30 11:00:00 1986 Date-Received: Sat, 4-Oct-86 09:05:51 EDT References: <1346@drutx.UUCP> Lines: 28 Nf-ID: #R:drutx:-134600:hplsla:19500002:000:1137 Nf-From: hplsla!bobc Sep 30 08:00:00 1986 >the underlying metal, but I did observe fine scratches in the >surface. I'm not sure whether these scratches were the result >of factory finishing work, or damage caused by etching of the >surface by the stripper. I called a corrosion expert at If your worried about about a little etching, then you probably don't need to remove the clear finish in the first place. I removed the coating so that I could get at the corrosion underneath. It was pretty bad in places. I wasn't worried about about harming the original finish because I knew I had a lot of polishing ahead of me anyway. Once I removed the clear coat, I used 600 wet/dry sandpaper to polish out the corrosion and get the entire surface to a uniform finish. Then, using emory cloth, followed by automotive and aluminum polish, I was able to create a mirror finish. It was a lot of work, but the results are impressive. Obviously, the amount of polishing you have to do depends on how deep the corrosion is. Also, I wouln't remove the coating to do spot fixes. It could be difficult to match finishes. Bob Cutler hplsla!bobc Hewlett-Packard Lake Stevens, WA