Relay-Version: version B 2.10 5/3/83; site utzoo.UUCP Path: utzoo!utgpu!water!watnot!watmath!clyde!rutgers!lll-lcc!styx!twg-ap!amdahl!pyramid!prls!philabs!micomvax!musocs!mcgill-vision!mouse From: mouse@mcgill-vision.UUCP Newsgroups: sci.electronics Subject: Re: Infra-Red Receiver? Message-ID: <726@mcgill-vision.UUCP> Date: Wed, 1-Apr-87 20:17:06 EST Article-I.D.: mcgill-v.726 Posted: Wed Apr 1 20:17:06 1987 Date-Received: Thu, 9-Apr-87 00:13:00 EST References: <1922@ihlpl.ATT.COM> <562@puff.WISC.EDU> <3972@fritz.UUCP> <801@cooper.UUCP> Organization: McGill University, Montreal Lines: 23 In article <801@cooper.UUCP>, gene@cooper.UUCP (Gene from EK Enterprises) writes: > In article <3972@fritz.UUCP>, dennisg@fritz.UUCP (Dennis Griesser) writes: >> ... until I found out that the data printed on the back of the >> blister pack gave the WRONG PIN-OUT FOR THE IR LED! > What I do in most cases is not to trust such things like "short lead > is the cathode, long lead is the anode" or any pictures of the case. > Unless the LED is in a mondo-strango case, look through the plastic > and match the leads with this drawing: > [drawing] Or you could always break down and use a dc ohmmeter....there are very few (probably none in working order) ohmmeters which will put out enough current to fry the LED, and similarly few which will put out enough voltage to fry it when reverse-biased. der Mouse Smart mailers: mouse@mcgill-vision.uucp USA: {ihnp4,decvax,akgua,utzoo,etc}!utcsri!musocs!mcgill-vision!mouse think!mosart!mcgill-vision!mouse ARPAnet: think!mosart!mcgill-vision!mouse@harvard.harvard.edu