Path: utzoo!utgpu!jarvis.csri.toronto.edu!rutgers!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!psivax!torkil
From: torkil@psivax.UUCP (Torkil Hammer)
Newsgroups: sci.electronics
Subject: Re: Mechanical Light Timer Problem
Message-ID: <2755@psivax.UUCP>
Date: 1 Jun 89 00:31:24 GMT
References: <40651@bbn.COM>
Reply-To: torkil@psivax.UUCP (Torkil Hammer)
Distribution: na
Organization: Pacesetter Systems Inc., Sylmar, CA
Lines: 31

In article <40651@bbn.COM> gonzalez@vax.bbn.com (Jim Gonzalez) writes:
#
#About a year ago, a lamp I had attached to the timer failed.  It 
#would not supply power to the bulb, even when plugged directly into 
#a wall outlet.  I gave up on it, figuring it was a cheap lamp.
#
#The lamp I bought to take its place has just failed.  The switch on 
#the socket now requires jiggling to get it to throw, and there is 
#crackling in the housing once it is on.  The timer is rated for 15A 
#load.  The lamps were both simple incandescents.  Lamp failure in
#both cases was followed a string of short-lived bulbs (GE Watt Miser
#70 and 90-watt bulbs in 100-watt fixtures).  Switches for each were
#socket-mounted.

The timer didn't do it.

The damage you describe is typical for overheating.  Overheating occurs
1. If you use higher bulb wattage than the fixture is rated for
   (You didn't do that)
2. If the fixture is placed so it does not get enough cooling.  This is
more likely to be your problem, as it is worse with high wattage bulbs
(70 and 90).  Even though the lamp is rated for 100 watts, those watts
have to be cooled away by air convection - just like heat from a TV.
Use a smaller bulb or move the lamp away from the wall and make sure
that it does not stand right under a shelf or ceiling that can obstruct
the air.  Also, if you plan on using 90 watt bulbs, don't buy a cheap
lamp.

Good luck

torkil