Xref: utzoo comp.sys.mac.hardware:1449 comp.sys.mac:47768 Path: utzoo!utgpu!jarvis.csri.toronto.edu!mailrus!ames!apple!portal!portal!cup.portal.com!Armadillo From: Armadillo@cup.portal.com (Russ Armadillo Coffman) Newsgroups: comp.sys.mac.hardware,comp.sys.mac Subject: Re: HELP: Mac 512K Video Problems Message-ID: <26515@cup.portal.com> Date: 2 Feb 90 06:05:23 GMT References: <11248@attctc.Dallas.TX.US> Organization: The Portal System (TM) Lines: 47 Jay - Had the same problem many times - between my original 128 and my current Plus, I've owned six power boards. The last blown board was prolly my fault (long story), but it was dying anyway. Q&D way to forestall the inevitable: I'll ASSume you can open the case (and you remember to disconnect power cord etc.). Look at the big wires coming off the end of the CRT that go to the power board. They go to a large connector. Remove the cardboard from the power board. Resolder the pins of this large connector (four, I think). Get 'em nice and hot. I saw one board that had almost NO solder here, so you may have to add some. While you're in there, unplug both ends of this connector and reseat it firmly - plug and unplug it a few times, in fact. Just these two steps alone solved the problem you described for me just this week. Well, here's the long story. I put the cover back on without replacing the cardboard - "just for a sec," to test. A couple of protruding blobs made contact with the inside of the case's RF coating when I whacked the case to see if I could make it act up again - POW! Left a couple of black marks on the inside of the case. Until then, all the shaking was gone. Being unemployed, I dug up the name of a local (Sillycone Valley) component-level repair shop. Stopped by, and ten minutes and $75 later left with a spiffy new power board. * I challenge Apple Computer Inc. or any dealer to top that example of cost and service!! * But I digress. Anyway, first discharge yer CRT by hooking a wire with an alligator clip at each end to a screwdriver and one of the lugs at the top left corner of the CRT (as viewed from the rear). Insert the screwdriver tip under the suction cup and make contact. Use a wet neighbor or small animal to test for stray high voltage before proceeding (jes' kiddin'). The above may keep you going from anywhere from a few days, or, as in one time on my Plus, a whole year. When Apple engineering finally catches up with you, try to find a local equivalent to my guy. Oh - for locals, he's Robert Stokes, Design Services, 408-246-8809 or 408-982-0950, in SJ off 101 & San Tomas Distressway. Sure beats $200+ at a sanforized Apple dealer. Good luck, -Russ Mac Guy Sales & Corp. support whiz Still looking for MacWork