Path: utzoo!utgpu!alliant.com!UUCP Reply-To: british-cars@alliant.com Errors-To: british-cars-request@alliant.com Sender: british-cars-request@alliant.com Return-Path: Date: Thu, 8 Feb 90 17:46:14 EST From: sfisher@abingdon.wpd.sgi.com (Scott Fisher) Message-ID: <9002082246.AA12290@abingdon.wpd.sgi.com> To: british-cars@alliant.com Subject: Re: Has it been done? Newsgroups: list.british-cars Distribution: ut Approved: devnull@gpu.utcs.toronto.edu All this talk about MG/Honda mating has got me wondering. Do any of you know if this has been done using real British bodies and Japanese drivetrains. Every time my `67 MGB/GT coughs or spits, I think about how nice it would be to have a clean reliable Toyota or Honda engine in it. I still have to ask why you'd change the *engine* in an MGB. Reliability isn't the answer -- power, maybe, but the B series can be made to go pretty well, reliably, for less money (and certainly with fewer hassles) than converting. The engine isn't the unreliable part of MGBs. You'd be better off to spend your money working on the electrical system and putting new oil seals into the engine. Easily 80% of the problems that MGBs have can be related to electrical malfunctions or oil seal failures. The basic mechanicals -- the metal parts of the engine -- are tough as old boots. I doubt if I'd ever do it because I'm a stickler for authenticity, but it sure sounds good. Any thoughts on the feasibility? If you're determined to change the engine, change it to something with more power (or possibly to something with fewer emissions; that's a reason that I can imagine, especially for the future). For that, the logical choice is either rotary -- go for a built 13B, or just get a new engine out of an RX-7 that comes with its electronic fuel injection and ignition, and get, what is it now, 160 bhp with daisy-fresh exhaust and something of its own sporting heritage. The RX motor is small, light, and compact, and should prove little trouble to fit. This, for instance, is a popular conversion on Spridgets, which have tiny engine bays; I've seen several good clean conversions on Spridgets and it'd be a piece of cake for a B. Best bet: use the RX transmission (the B's won't take the revs or the power for long, and also the rotary's power take-off is higher in the block than a piston engine's is, and the RX transmission compensates for that). If you like torque rather than high RPM, try the factory way and drop in a TR-8 motor. It's best to have an MG built after September, 1973 for this one, because the factory changed the bulkhead shape to accommodate the V8. In stock form, that puts out something like 155 bhp but with more torque than the RX-7 mill; the aluminum V8 weighs something like 40 pounds less than a B-series four, to boot. On another subject, I have to say something good about the electrical system in the car. I started it up last night at 10pm 35 miles from home and the generator light stayed lit. Hmmm... I was amazed to find that the car started just like it always(well, usually) does and didn't even crank slowly. Thank You Batteries!! Like I said, the cars are amazing -- the electrical components were often shortchanged. All things considered, I'd probably rather have a B with a good rebuild, a nice cam, a free-flow exhaust and some well-balanced SUs and spend the money on upgrading the electrical components and on modern oil seal materials. RIght now, for instance, I'm having occasional starter-solenoid problems (I'm 90% sure that's what it is, but more on that later...) --Scott